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　　居然到了山西，天是透明的藍(lán)，白云更流動得使人可以忘記很多的事，單單在一點(diǎn)什么感情底下，打滴溜轉(zhuǎn)；更不用說到那山山水水，小堡壘，村落，反映著夕陽的一角廟，一座塔！景物是美得到處使人心慌心痛。

　　We are finally here on the land of Shanxi! The sky is liquid blue; eyes feasting on the white clouds overhead, one may loiter and dream at will in utter restfulness. Moreover, such landscape as hills and streams, small fortresses, hamlets, and the sun-gilt temple or pagoda can be observed anywhere at any time. Or we might as well say the eyes could fall on nothing that is not of a breathtaking beauty.

　　我是沒有出過門的，沒有動身之前不容易動，走出來之后卻就不知道如何流落才好。旬日來眼看去的都是圖畫，日子都是可以歌唱的古事。黑夜里在山場里看河南來到山西的匠人，圍住一個大紅爐子打鐵，火花和鏗鏘的聲響，散到四團(tuán)黑影里去。微月中步行尋到田壟廢廟，劃一根“取燈”偷偷照看那瞭望觀音的臉，一片平靜。幾百年來，沒有動過感情的，在那一閃光底下，倒像掛上一縷笑意。

　　Seldom have I had such a long journey. Tied up with various chores on weekdays, I yet was at a total loss when managing to shake them off and make my way here. During these ten days, everything into the eye forms a good picture and each day passed makes a happy song. At night we had gathered on a threshing floor round a big burning furnace, and watched the blacksmiths form Henan Province striking iron, the sparks and din of which diffused and sank into the surrounding darkness. By moonlight we had walked to fields and wilds and paused to contemplate—with the help of a "tinder"—the Buddha we had found, whose face had remained serene for hundreds of years, seemed to show a smile at that very glimpse.

　　我們因?yàn)樘皆L古跡走了許多路；在種種情形之下感慨到古今興廢。在草叢里讀碑碣，在磚堆中間偶然碰到菩薩的一雙手一個微笑，都是可以激動起一些不平常的感覺來的。鄉(xiāng)村的各種浪漫的位置，秀麗天真；中間人物維持著老老實(shí)實(shí)的鮮艷顏色，老的扶著拐杖，小的赤著胸背，沿路上點(diǎn)綴的，盡是他們明亮的眼睛和笑臉。由北平城里來的我們，東看看，西走走，夕陽背在背上，真和掉在另一個世界里一樣！云塊，天，和我們之間似乎失掉了一切障礙。我樂時就高興的笑，笑聲一直散到對河對山，說不定那一個林子，那一個村落里去！我感覺到一種平坦，竟許是遼闊，和地面恰恰平行著舒展開來，感覺的最邊沿的邊沿，和大地的邊沿，永遠(yuǎn)賽著向前伸……

　　We traveled quite a few miles because of our archaeological work, and in many places we had lingered, musing over the vicissitudes that might have taken place there. Deciphering the inscriptions among the grass, or stumbling upon a hand or a smiling face of the Buddha among a mass of waste bricks, both could inspire great sensations in us. The various locations of the rural dwellings, though casual, were all so natural and pleasant that they were given a tinge of romance and the people inside were all with the most primitive simplicity. There were elders on crutches, and the kids stripped to the waist; along the road were all their faces bright with smiles and glowing with innocent enjoyment. Everything was new for us the newcomers who just broke loose from Beijing; we hanged here and there, gazing around, the setting sun behind our back, and felt as if having lost ourselves among the grandeurs of another world! The distinction between the clouds, the sky and us seemed to have disappeared. I laughed whenever I liked it, my laughter extending all the way across the river, through the mountains, and to the adjacent villages or woods which I could not even identify! I felt something serene, or perhaps infinite, was rising inside me and stretching about in parallel with the horizons; my faculties, seemingly all astir, were rushing forward in race with the ends of the earth…

　　我不會說，說起來也只是一片瘋話人家不耐煩聽。以我描寫一些實(shí)際情形我又不大會，總而言之，遠(yuǎn)地里，一片田廟有人在工作，上面青的，黃的，紫的，分行的長著；每一處山坡上，有人在走路，放羊，迎著陽光，背著陽光，投射著轉(zhuǎn)動的光影；每一個小城，前面站著城樓，旁邊睡著小廟，那里又托出一座石塔，神和人，都服帖地，滿足地，守著他們那一角天地，近地里，則更有的是熱鬧，一條街里站滿了人，孩子頭上梳著三個小辮子的，四個小辮子的，乃至于五六個小辮子的，衣服簡單到只剩一個紅兜肚，上面隱約也繡有她嬤嬤挑的兩三朵花！

　　I belong to that kind of person clumsy with speech. And though I do have a tongue, I am afraid it might go so far and wide as to be a bore, while the present scene could be beyond words even to a man of eloquence. In a word, in a distant field we could see someone working, where crops green, yellow and purple were growing in respective rows; on every slope of the hill there were people walking or shepherds browsing sheep, their shadows revolving round their moving figures against the sunlight; before every county stood a gate tower, with a small temple lying beside and a stone pagoda rising out somewhere among. The josses and living human beings alike were with great piety, being content with having one corner of their own on the earth. The scene in the immediate vicinity was with more liveliness. The street was crowded with people, with children wearing their hair in braid three, four or even five and six scattering about! Their clothes, so plain as to be a sole red bellyband, still dimly bore two or three flowers that must be their Mama's work!

　　娘娘廟前面樹蔭底下，你又能阻止誰來看熱鬧？教書先生出來了，軍隊(duì)里兵卒拉著馬過來了，幾個女人嬌羞的手拉著手，也扭著來站在一邊了，小孩子爭著擠，看我們照相，拉皮尺量平面，教書先生幫忙我們拓碑文。說起來這個那個廟，都是年代可多了，什么時候蓋的，誰也說不清了！說話之人來得太多，我們工作實(shí)在發(fā)生困難了，可是我們大家都頂高興的，小孩子一邊抱著飯碗吃飯，一邊睜著大眼看，一點(diǎn)子也不松懈。

　　And who has informed people beforehand that we were to be there, beneath the shaded tree before Her Majesty's temple? Yet the masters came over, the soldiers dragging their horses approached, and several women hand in hand coyly also came and stood beside us quietly. The kids jostled against each other to see us taking pictures, placing the tape measure and doing the measurement, while the masters helped us with the rubbing of inscriptions. Our talk shifted from one temple to another, all with so long a history that nobody could tell their origins! The increasing number of the villagers joining the talk added difficulty to our work, but we all were very happy. Even the kids having their meals with rice bowl in hands were all eyes, without any hint of relaxation.

　　我們走時總是一村子的人來送的，兒媳婦指著說給老婆婆聽，小孩們跑著還要跟上一段路。開柵鎮(zhèn)，小相村，大相村，哪一處不是一樣地?zé)狒[，看到北齊天保三年造像碑，我們不小心的，漏出一個驚異的叫喊，他們鄉(xiāng)里彎著背的、老點(diǎn)兒的人，就也露出一個得意的微笑，知道他們村里的寶貝，居然嚇著這古怪的來客了?！澳甏嗔税?？”他們驕傲的問。“多了多了。”我們高興地回答，“差不多一千四百年了?！薄把?，一千四百年！”我們便一齊驕傲起來。

The whole village would pour out to see us off whenever we left one place for another. Daughters-in-law pointed and explained to their old mothers-in-law, and the children ran to follow us for miles. Whenever we reached, this or that village, we were received with the same great hospitality. Discovering the effigy built in the year 552 AD, subconsciously, we gave out an exclamation of astonishment. The hunchbacked elders, aware that this antique article of treasure in their village had staggered us the strange visitors, returned us a knowing smile. "With a long history, isn't it?" They asked with pride. "Yeah, a long history absolutely," we assured them with joy, "of almost 1400 years". Then together we were wreathed in pride.

　　我們看看這里金元重修的，那里明季重修的殿宇，討論那式樣做法的特異處，塑像神氣，手續(xù)，天就漸漸黑下來，嘴里覺到渴，肚里覺到餓，才記起一天的日子圓圓整整地就快結(jié)束了?；貋硖稍诖采暇_麗鮮明的印象仍然掛在眼睛前邊，引導(dǎo)著種種適意的夢，同時晚飯上所吃的菜蔬果子，便給養(yǎng)充實(shí)著我們明天的精力，直到一大顆太陽，紅紅地照在我們的臉上。

　　We were still burying ourselves in those palaces and temples rebuilt in the Jin and Yuan or Ming dynasties here and there, and deciding the uniqueness of their styles, appearance, and making craft when the night gradually fell. It was only until then that we began to realize our mouth had been dry and our stomach empty, that another fulfilling day was over. Back to the dwelling place, body lying on the bed, the vivid impressions still haunted before eyes and prepared me for various sweet dreams. And the fresh fruits and vegetable we had during the dinner had too refreshed us with enough energy, until tomorrow morning we would be greeted by another new day of a big and red sun shining.